About the Domaine
Situated among the rocky valleys of the Hautes-Corbières, just 25km from the Mediterranean Sea, and only accessible by small winding roads is the sleepy village of Fontjoncouse. Despite its relative isolation and a population of just over 120 inhabitants this tiny village is home to Gilles Goujon’s world renowned, Auberge du Vieux Puits. Gourmands the world over travel to Fontjoncouse to dine at this three-star Michelin restaurant. Many are perhaps oblivious to the tiny Domaine located at 1 Avenue Saint-Victor as they pass it on their way to Auberge du Vieux Puits. Here, not much more than a stone’s throw from one of the world’s best restaurants, Gaëlle and Florian Richter are producing some of the most distinctive and soulful wines coming out of the Languedoc today.
Gaëlle, a Burgundian, trained to be an enologist in Dijon. Florian, the son of a German wine importer, studied international wine business at Geisenheim University. The two met in 2009 while working at Maison Champy in Burgundy and have been inseparable ever since. It was at Maison Champy where they first experienced working with Biodynamics. This early exposure to Biodynamic viticulture would prove instrumental in the decision to employ Biodynamics at their own Domaine.
With the price of vineyard land in Burgundy constantly rising, the young couple understood that if they were to have a Domaine of their own Burgundy was not the place. Also wanting to gain experience with different varieties and climates, they spent the next couple of years making wine in some of the world’s best wine regions. Their experiences include working in Germany, in Napa Valley at Lokoya and Hall Wines, in Tuscany with Alberto Antonini, in Châteauneuf du Pape at Château Beaucastel and Domaine du Pégau, and in New Zealand at Te Awa.
In 2012 they returned to France and settled in the Languedoc. Gaëlle worked as an enologist for Pierre Clavel in Pic Saint Loup and Florian took a position at a Languedoc cooperative. Immediately seeing the potential of the higher elevation vineyards located in the Hautes-Corbières they set out to purchase vines of their own. Unwilling to settle for what was available, it was a couple of years before their patience was rewarded. In 2015 the stars aligned, and they were able to purchase 12.5 hectares of old vines on the rough hillsides near Fontjoncouse. These unique vineyards are spread over several valleys, with multiple exposures and varying altitudes of 250-350m. With the combination of higher altitude and several plots with north-northeast exposures, this micro-climate is 2-4 °C cooler than the rest of the region, which is important for keeping freshness and acidity in the wines.
Today the Domaine consists of 14 hectares planted to 8 different varieties: predominately Carignan for the reds, with Grenache and a little Syrah, and for the whites, Macabeu, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Vermentino and Roussanne. The existing vines were worked organically since 2001, but immediately upon taking over the vineyards Gaëlle and Florian started the conversion to Biodynamic farming. Today, all vineyards are Demeter certified or in the conversion process. Work in the vineyards is dominated by meticulous manual labor, as the narrow vine rows of the older plantings make working with a tractor impossible. Gaëlle and Florian are in the vines daily and intimately understand each parcel they farm.
The couple have a firm belief that this understanding is necessary in order to craft wines as singular and unique as the terroirs from which the wines are produced.
In the cellar the focus is on elegance and freshness. Both great lovers of Burgundy, Gaëlle and Florian believe that the unique micro-climate of Fontjoncouse lends itself nicely to a finesse driven style reminiscent of their favorite Burgundies. The whites are vinified in the traditional Burgundian way, with low pressure pneumatic pressing, fermentation and maturation in 228L French oak barrels, with gentle rackings and light batonnage. The reds are fermented utilizing a combination of whole clusters and whole berries in large concrete and stainless-steel tanks. In order to maintain freshness and avoid the extraction of harsh tannins, the reds undergo one light pump-over a day. A minimal amount of sulfur is added at the completion of malolactic fermentation and all wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
From our first taste of Domaine Des Deux Clés at the La Levée De La Loire in early 2019, we have been incredibly excited about these wines. Having been lucky enough to spend time with Gaëlle and Florian at the Domaine, you find yourself somewhat in awe of their precision, thoughtfulness and commitment. Still in their early 30’s, we do not think it’s a stretch to believe that one day Domaine Des Deux Clés will be considered a benchmark producer not just in Corbières, but the entire Languedoc.
