About the Domaine
The Bugey region forms the southern extension of France’s limestone-rich Jura mountains. In its southwest, between the villages of Cheignieu-la-Balme and Pugieu, the 12-hectare cru Manicle rests beneath a dramatic limestone cliff. From this striking setting, Clément Bärtschi is crafting some of the most exciting wines to emerge from this once-overlooked corner of France.
Born in Bugey and raised in Lyon, Clément spent his childhood weekends and holidays at his grandparents’ farm in Boyeux-Saint-Jérôme. The meadows, forests, and vineyards of Bugey left an indelible mark, inspiring a dream—long before he made his first wine—to one day return and work its soils. But first came rugby. Rising through the ranks of his local club ASVEL in Villeurbanne, Clément reached the senior team and, in 2004, earned selection for the Swiss national squad.
While still playing, he prepared for life after sport, earning degrees in microbiology (Lyon) and enology (Bordeaux). Upon retiring from rugby, Clément secured an internship at the legendary Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy—a formative experience that led, in 2010, to a role at Michel Chapoutier in Tain-l’Hermitage. Quickly proving his skill and dedication, Clément rose to become head winemaker, a position he still holds today. At Chapoutier, he gained unparalleled access to the great terroirs of the Northern Rhône, experimented with a wide array of viticultural and winemaking techniques, and deepened his appreciation for biodynamic farming and single-parcel expression.
In 2018, word came that one of the four owners of the Manicle cru was retiring without an heir. Recognizing a rare opportunity, Clément presented his vision for the site, and in 2019 acquired 3 hectares of old-vine Chardonnay, massale-selection Pinot Noir, and a few rows of Gamay. He immediately began the conversion to organic viticulture, achieving certification in 2022, and integrated many biodynamic practices with the goal of full certification in the future. Beyond his estate holdings, Clément also produces négociant bottlings from native varieties—such as Jacquère and Altesse—sourced from trusted organic growers in Bugey and Savoie.
Clément’s winemaking is Burgundian in spirit. Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented exclusively with indigenous yeasts. The whites are whole-cluster pressed, fermented, and aged in 228L French oak barrels (5–10% new). Reds see a two-week whole-cluster maceration with gentle pump-overs, followed by élevage in neutral 228L French oak barrels.
Domaine Bärtschi stands as a rare convergence of place and talent: an exceptional vineyard site in the hands of a vigneron with both technical mastery and deep regional roots. Clément’s meticulous, expressive wines embody the promise of a golden age for this tiny alpine appellation.
